Thursday, February 08, 2018

Perusing Perugia

After Orvieto, the next stop was Perugia, capital of the region of Umbria. Although of course Perugia is a relatively large and by no means unknown city, this felt more off the beaten track and authentic. And, although I didn't follow the whole Amanda Knox story particularly closely, I couldn't help thinking of that whole drama as well. That, and the famous Baci chocolates. While Perugina wasn't exactly stuffed with famous must-sees on the scale of Florence, there was still plenty to enjoy.

The National Gallery of Umbria is housed within the Palazzo dei Priori in the middle of the old town, and holds a large collection of medieval and Renaissance art, naturally including examples of perhaps the city's most famous son, Perugino, the teacher of Raphael.

Perugino had a habit of re-using "cartoons" (preparatory drawings) in his works. The gallery had enough examples of his work that you could clearly see the same figures and compositions being recycled in multiple works.


Well, I guess this is my life now
I assume these KKK-looking dudes were some sort of religious order. They popped up quite a few times in different artworks
We got more Perugino at the nearby Collegio del Cambio, a small set of rooms built between 1452 - 1457 for the Bankers' Guild, decorated with frescoes. Photos weren't allowed and the attendant had cameras and head-turning in her arsenal, but I still managed a couple of naughty, wonky pics. I know it's wrong and rather futile in this day and age, but I just can't help it.




For an extra euro, you could also go to the Collegio della Mercanzia. The Merchants made a good effort with elaborate wood panelling, but couldn't quite live up to the majesty of the Bankers. They, at least, do allow photos.


Still in basically the same square in the middle of Perugia, you will also find the Fontana Maggiore. It's not the most visually impressive fountain from a distance, but close up you can appreciate the medieval statues and carvings, showing Old Testament, agricultural and mythological scenes.



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